Where to eat, where to sleep and what to see in Procida, the fishermen’s island hidden in the Gulf of Naples. An authentic land where the eternal connection with the sea is reflected in the daily gestures of its inhabitants.
Hidden in the shadows of the more glamorous Capri and Ischia, the quiet Procida is a silent and colorful island that deserves a visit of at least a couple of days. An authentic place unknown to mass tourism where the sea beats the passage of time and the scent of lemons invades the alleys of the historic center. The inhabitants make Procida even more special. Mere and taciturn people, they’ve been married to the sea for centuries through fishing and merchant fleets.
What to see in Procida
You reach the island after about 40 minutes ferry or hydrofoil from Naples. From the little port of Marina Grande, you can set off to discover the island. Going up the promontory and descending from the opposite side you reach Marina di Corricella, the oldest fishing village of the island and one of the best things to see in Procida. Among restaurants, boats and fishing nets left to dry in the sun, curious cats wander around attracted by the smell of fresh fish. The ocher and pastel colored facades stretch as far as the eye can see.
Going up the stairs of the village you arrive at the Terra Murata, built to protect the island from marauding Saracens. Here, where a prison once stood, the gaze gets lost in the vast panorama of the Corricella village on a side and of the blue waters of the Gulf of Naples on the other. Crossing the door of Palazzo D’Avalos you arrive at one of the most silent and beautiful places to admire the Vesuvius and listen to the sound of the sea. On this terrace, the highest and most panoramic of Procida, you find the Bar del Castello, where it is possible to taste a traditional island dish: the lemons salad, a summery and regenerating recipe rich in vitamins and mineral salts. Try also the fresh lemonades and the lemon granita!
Among the things to see in Procida there is also Marina Chiaioiella, a small village overlooking the largest beach of the island: the Lido. Along the coast, the dark sand recalls the volcanic origins of this land. To explore Procida in freedom you can rent an electric bicycle. Alternatively you can use the public minibus service or negotiate a tour on board an Ape-car taxi for more or less € 30. However, the best way to experience the island is from the sea with a private boat trip (continue reading for more info).
What to taste in Procida (and where)
The day begins with a good Neapolitan coffee and Lingua, a traditional pastry filled with lemon cream – rigorously prepared with Procida’s lemons. The best place to taste it is the Bar Cavaliere in Via Roma, 42.
The tasting continues with spaghetti with sea urchins, paccheri with squid and green peppers or cuttlefish. For the more adventurous, pasta with mussels and beans. All accompanied by the fragrance of the island’s lemons, one of the best we’ve ever tasted (the Procida’s lemons, also called limoni di pane, are much larger and sweeter than the usual ones). A traditional island dish is the lemons salad, a summery and regenerating recipe rich in vitamins and mineral salts. It is made with Procida’s lemons, Tropea onion, garlic, mint, chilli pepper, salt and extra virgin olive oil. The dinner ends with one of the most famous Italian digestive, Limoncello.
If you are wondering where to eat in Procida here are some unmissable addresses: La Pergola in Via Salette 10, Fuego in Via Marina di Corricella 43 (delicious Neapolitan pizza), La Conchiglia in Via Pizzaco, 10.
Where to sleep in Procida
We discovered the island thanks to the opening of the new Procida Camp & Resort, which called us to take photos and videos. The Procida Camp & Resort is a secret garden, hidden behind a door as blue as the sea. The perfect place to relax in the shade of lemon trees. For your stay you can choose between Airstream, Nordisk tents, Safari tents and Bungalows. Each accommodation has an outdoor shower (+10 points) and a kitchen where you can cook excellent fresh fish bought in one of the many fish shops on the island and flavored with aromatic herbs and lemons of the garden.
At the Procida Camp & Resort you can rent electric bikes and SUPs or take part to yoga classes and boat trips to discover the island and its hidden caves (or maybe for a day visit to the nearby islands of Ischia and Capri. To see all the videos and photos we took, take a look at the Instagram account @procidacampresort.
How to get to Procida
From Naples Capodichino airport you can reach the ports of Calata Porta di Massa and Molo Beverello by taxi (more or less € 20, bargain the fare before departure) and the ride lasts 15 minutes or by bus (€ 5, ticket purchasable on board). The Alibus leaves every 20 minutes from the airport and arrives at the ports in about 30-40 minutes with a single intermediate stop, the Central Station. The Caremar and Medmar ferries depart from Calata Porta di Massa and reach Procida in about 1 hour. Caremar and Snav hydrofoils leave from Molo Beverello and the journey takes about 40 minutes. There is a frequent and free shuttle service between the two piers. To check the timetables and prices of ferries and hydrofoils for Procida click here.